Day 23 – Cairns

T’was an earlier start for the Dmax Crew this morning with a planned fishing trip out into the waters just off Cairns…The Prado Crew had a relaxed start, and I helped pack Benny’s bag for his impending trip back to Sydney…I know he was having fun, but missing his mum & little brother as well and looking forward to getting home…

Mum and dad arrived mid morning, and after a quick chat headed off to the airport with Ben, Harper and I in tow. It was all too soon before Harps and I were bidding farewell to Mum, Dad & Benny in the departure lounge and on our way back to camp. A quick stop off at Road Tech Marine to collect a new water cap for the trailer before arriving back at the Coconut Resort.

Not long after, the Dmax Crew returned from their fishing adventures, with stories of the big ones caught, and the even bigger ones that got away. From their recount of the morning, it sounded like great fun was had by all, as well as a decent lunch to boot…

Katreen just getting warmed up…

Awwwww

Paul & Brookey both received a discount on the charter for holding up the roof…

Now we’re talkin – Katreen leading the way for Team Dmax…

It was however NRL Grand Final day, and with two excited Bulldogs fans (Ethan & Brooke) part of the group, the obligatory nibblies and finger foods would need to be aquired. I dashed off to the local shopping centre and with a basket full of chicken skewers, party pies and buffalo wings, returned to camp to find the group well entrenched in front of the television, courtesy of the Nova Terra Sportz…

Getting set to watch the NRL Grand Final…

Unfortunately the result didnt go their way, and after a few little ribbings from those cheering on the bunnies, the kids headed off to bed, leaving the adults to plan the following days trip up to Cooktown and the iconic Lions Den Hotel…

Rookie mistake of the day – leaving it until 4:30pm to head to the shops to pick up some food on Grand Final Day.

Interesting fact of the day – The main opposition to daylight savings in Queensland comes from Far North Queensland, yes we southerners joke about the fading curtains and milking the cows but the loudest noise in these parts comes from those skin cancer prevention advocates. By moving the clocks forward you are putting people (particularly kids) out in the sun when it is at its’ strongest. Usually between 10am and 2pm but moving the clocks forward an hour makes it 11am to 3pm. The argument being, kids are just leaving school and beginning their afternoon activities when the suns UV rays are still very high.

 

Day 22 – Lakeland to Cairns (via Kuranda)

This morning, we were off to Cairns Coconut Resort, a destination being looked foward to by the kids, and adults as well. The excitement of seeing mum & dad motivated us to keep on track and make our destination. As we meandered through the mountains seperating Mareeba and Cairns, we settled on a lunch stop in the quaint town of Kuranda. The various markets and stores satisfied the retail urges and a nice meal in the Rainforest Cafe fulfilled the culinary desires. With the parents perusing the stalls, Brooke, Ben and Ethan decided to have their caricatures done by a local street artist.

With the afternoon pressing on, again facing an extended set up time over the Nova Terra Sportz and with mum and dad en-route, the Prado Crew headed down the mountain, leaving the Dmax Crew at Kuranda to take in a few more sights.

Upon our arrival, mum and dad greeted us in the carpark. It was hugs all round and a sigh of relief from dad that we had managed to make it back from the Tip in one piece, albeit a few niggles here and there. We set up camp and awaited the return of the Dmax Crew, before heading down to the cafe inside the resort for a nice meal. The food was delicious, with special mention to the Prawn Fettucine dish enjoyed by four of us…it was to die for!! – Both delicious and a huge serving, Clare and I both took the leftovers back to camp to enjoy for lunch the next day (it was fantastic the next day too…)

We bid farewell to mum and dad, albeit just for the night, with their return scheduled in the morning to collect Ben for the three to fly back to Sydney. It was Benny’s last night with us and I knew I was going to miss having him part of the adventures for the next week or so…

Interesting fact of the day – The railway station was built in 1915 and the post office in 1891 and the town is now home to many looking for an alternative lifestyle. Kuranda is also home to the Australian Butterfly Sanctuary where approximately 3.0,000 caterpillars are bred in the lab each year

Day 21 – Coen to Lakeland (via Lakefield National Park)

After a couple of unsettled nights with Harper, Clare and I were a little weary this morning…The breakfast table was abuzz with stories of an overnight invasion of the campsite…by a cow!!. Apparently in the early hours, and as witnessed by the Dmax Crew, a cow casually wandered through the middle of our set up…Of course with his aversion to the bovine, Paul believed a more sinister motive was behind the visit…

With a motivated Prado Crew on hand, the second attempt at a ‘Stress Free Pack Up’ was initiated, and with the team pulling together, we managed to knock an hour off our usual pack up time, and get on the road by 9:05am…we still can’t work out how we managed to save an hour??

We farewelled Coen and made our way south towards Lakeland, with a planned diversion through Lakefield National Park. It turned out to be a little longer in distance than the direct route, but allowed us to take in the beauty of the park as well as enjoy some recently graded, smooth dirt roads. The change in scenery was welcomed and the open plains and lily ponds a refreshing sight, with a few little water crossings thrown in for good measure.

The northern entrance to Lakefield National Park

Our first stop was at the Hann River Crossing. On the northern side of the river, a small open area facilitated both crews and with the awnings out, we enjoyed a roadside lunch whilst taking in the scenery.

Lunchtime on the banks of the Hann River (Lakefield NP)

Brooke testing the crossing depth @ Hann River…

The mighty Dmax crossing the Hann River…

Paul risking life and limb in snake infested scrub to get a great shot of the Dmax & surrounding landscape in Lakefield NP

Katreen in command of the Dmax…

White Lily Pond inside Lakefield NP

With our tummies full, we continued on through the park, eventually emerging at Laura. With a top up of fuel and Callippo ice blocks, we prepared to head south. A stranded fellow motorist however drew on the skills of Paul and as such, the Dmax Crew were delayed for a short time. With their blessing, the Prado Crew headed off towards Lakeland given the extended set up time over the caravan.

We arrived at the Lakeland Caravan Park early afternoon, and after a quick check in and run down on the parks facilities (including a 3ft deep blow up pool for relaxing), we set up the Johnnos camper. The Dmax Crew arrived an hour or so later, and still managed to crack the first beer before we’d finished…they’re a slick team that crew…

Our campsite @ Lakeland Caravan Park

The adults enjoyed a few pre-dinner drinks and nibblies while the kids played touch footy. Pork was on the menu this evening, accompanied by a beautifully constructed pasta and veggies, both courtesy of Paul & Katreen…

Interesting fact of the day – many of the country towns have signs telling trucks to drop their dust before driving through. How you might ask? I was hoping they had a little button that made them shake like a dog when they’re shaking the water off – disappointingly they don’t. The dirt is held up under the body of the trucks due to the upward force of the air that circulates when driving. Once the truck stops the dust just drops down, the truck then takes off slowly while the remaining dirt falls away. The bitumen road is usually only a few hundred metres away so that the truck doesn’t pick up more dirt before town.

Day 20 – Weipa to Coen

Another pack up  – we did have a stress free pack but after all this time we do seem to be getting slower. It looks like it’s either fast and stressful or slower and not so stressful. If only we could have fast and no stress as I’m finding the time it takes very frustrating.

About 95% of today was driving through corrugations. They’re just so bumpy. Funnily I made the comment to Anthony that all the roads look the same – dirt, trees, termite mounds and long – he then pointed out that we were infact travelling along the same road we drive up on! nothing wrong with my observation skills…..

Heading out of Weipa we passed a number of road trains which was something we were hoping to see, they’re big and heavy and kick up soooo much dust.

We passed through the Archer River Roadhouse again and of course we had to partake in the famous burgers one more time. They didn’t disappoint. We were just about to head out when Paul and Anthony were asked for some mechanical help by a fellow traveller.

Unfortunately the car was travelling with another couple whose car was broken down with a broken axle 10 minutes up the road. They had come back to call for help and when they arrived they realised they had a flat tyre. The Rifftotip men provided a wheel brace to help with the tyre and then some air when the spare tyre was also flat.

Assistance provided we headed off (passing the broken axle car) thanking our lucky stars that neither of us have broken down ourselves.

This stint was one of Harpers best, she slept for 2.5 of the 3.5 hours, we kept checking that she was still breathing as this behaviour was unprecedented.

We arrived at Coen with plenty of daylight to set up. With the set up complete the kids headed off to collect some firewood for our first campside fire. Was it cold enough for a fire – probably not – but the kids (including Anthony) were keen to light one.

Brooke, Paul and Ethan setting up the fire

The set up at Coen

 

Day 19 – Weipa

Ahhhh….another pack up free day and another cooked breakfast. Bacon and eggs on the breakfast menu today.

Our campsite at Weipa, the camper trailer tucked in beside the caravan

With the disappointment of not being able to secure a fishing trip behind us (but not forgotten) the boys headed over to the local Tackle World to seek out some locals with the intention of finding the best local fishing spots.

The temperature was around 34 degrees and not being a keen fisherman I opted for a cooler afternoon and stayed at camp with Harper while the rest of the team battled the heat and did a spot of fishing off the jetty.

Harper soon gave in to the heavy eyelids and I caught up on some emails and umpire allocations.

A few hours later the team was hot and ready to head back to camp for a swim. Brooke and Anthony were equal leaders on the fish tally with three fish each. Ethan followed with one fish but unfortunately Brooke, Ben, Paul and Katreen had no luck. Treen hooked a few but lost them before she could reel them in. The stories of the one that got away continued through the swimming.

Anthony looking quite the part

Ben – nothing biting yet

Ethan just biding his time

Brooke – big smiles

Once we were all refreshed the Dmax crew did a quick change and headed to the point to catch the sunset and hopefully a few more fish while the boys kicked the football around and Ant and I headed over to Woolworths to pick up some supplies for the next few days of our journey. We were on the clock as Woolworths closes at 7:00pm (it takes a bit of getting used to, we live in such a fast paced 24 hour shopping environment that it’s just so strange to see a supermarket closed so early. On the same vein we have even had some of the services close between 12 and 1pm for lunch – maybe it’s us that has it wrong!)

Back from the shopping we started on dinner and all headed off to bed in anticipation for our pack up the next morning.

Day 18 – Weipa

The boys got a bit of a sleep in this morning, which led to a fairly relaxing day around the camp ground. A nice little treat of pancakes for breakfast filled our tummies for the day ahead. We made a number of calls to the local fishing charters, all to no avail…Who knew fishing would be so popular in FNQ…We couldnt get a fishing trip before we left, so a sunset cruise was booked for all to enjoy…

To fulfil the fishing desires of the boys, a quick visit to Weipa Tackleworld (just 200m away) saw the purchase of some new equipment, and a fishing shirt for Ant, which he apparently needed to assist in attracting more fish…

Ant then took Ben and Ethan over to the Mission River for a quick afternoon fish under the rail bridge. The rest of us headed over to the pool and dipped our toes in. After the dusty roads of the past few days, it was a welcome relief. As usual, Harper ‘The Water Baby’ accompanied mum in and splashed all and sundry. She really has taken to the water with a penchance and swimming lessons will definitely be considered upon our return…

Unfortunately for the boys, their afternoon was without success. Firstly they forgot to pick up some bait on the way, then Rio Tinto workers closed the dock for movement of some platforms. The boys pulled up stumps and returned to camp just in time for our departure for the sunset cruise.

We headed off down to Evans Landing boat ramp and boarded the Eco Tour around the main port and surrounding estuaries of Weipa. Harper though decided to take care of some business just as we boarded the boat…With the rest of the 30 or so passengers waiting, Ant did the dash up the wharf and undertook a lightning nappy change. Running back down to the boat, Ant and Harps climbed aboard and we were underway. Unfortunately in the haste, Ant forgot to grab the camera out.

The welcoming host Dave provided an informative insight into the workings of Weipa and the various fauna residing within the area. As luck would have it, we saw our first croc in the wild, on a sandbank grabbing some of the last afternoon sun, before sliding off into the river. As we moved into an adjoining estuary, a few of us caught a glimpse of our second croc, again just as it slid off the bank and into the water…both disconcerting and exciting at the same time. Harper though appeared non plussed and slept for most of the cruise…As the cruise made its way across the river and back towards the dock, we were blessed with a beautiful sunset to remember Weipa by…

A gorgeous Weipa sunset…

With delicious hamburgers served up by Team Dmax, the evening was complete.

 

Day 16 – Day Trip to Nolans Brook (via the OTT) & Fruit Bat Falls

Whilst reaching the tip was our ultimate goal, testing the Prado on some 4WD tracks was an additional challenge Ant had been looking forward to. In these parts, the Old Telegraph Track (OTT) can make or break your vehicle & camper, so no better way to test your skills and your equipment than right here. With the trailers safely back at Eliot Falls, we head off to tackle the northern section of the OTT from south to north.

With challenging ruts, climbs and descents, the initial stages did not dissapoint. Eventually we reached our first water crossing for the day at Canal Creek…

Assessing the first crossing @ Canal Creek…

The Dmax testing the line…

The Prado exiting Canal under the guidance of Paul…

Testing the Bilsteins B6’s…

Pushing further on, it wasn’t too long before we reached the next obstacle, Sam Creek. A fairly straight forward crossing with clear water and soft sandy bottom.

The Dmax on 3 wheels @ Sam Creek…

The Prado on approach to Sam Creek…

A nice little crossing…

As the morning went on, the crossing difficulty increased. Next up was Mistake Creek. With Clare at the wheel this time, a little steeper entry this time, and a little deeper as well…

Nose down heading towards Mistake Creek

The Dmax leading the way…

The Dmax wades on in…

Crossings getting a little deeper as the morning progressed…

Further along the track, we came to Cannibal Creek which proved a bit more tricky. The entry this time was very steep, both vehicles sliding down under brakes. Ant got it a little wrong and put a wheel up on the bank, wheels crossed up, the gallery gasped, took a deep breath, before he recovered the Prado and entered into Cannibal with a 4.5 score (out of 10!!)

The steeper entry into Cannibal Creek…

A deep breath for the Dmax…

Ant getting the line a little wrong…

Washing off the red dust…

With the first few water crossings under the belt, the next challenge was the iconic log bridge crossing over Cypress Creek. After assessing the wheel placement, Paul guided the Dmax over perfectly, with Clare & the Prado following closely behind…Clare’s question before tackling the bridge: “If I put a wheel off, I wont die will I?” – Ant: “No babe, but the Prado wont be coming back with us…”

The Dmax guinea pig takes the right line…

Clare guiding the Prado over Cypress…

The Bilsteins under pressure…

As we drove along the final stages of the northern OTT towards Nolans Brook, Paul reminded us “There’s no turning back now…we’ll have to get through Nolans…”. Ant hadnt really thought about this dilemma, and prior to starting the trip, was adamant Nolan’s wasnt on the agenda…We eventually got to the entry, lowered the tyres to 18psi and assessed the line we’d take. After some advice from those already having crossed (stick to the right bank…) Paul launched the Dmax…literally!!

With the snatchy pre-attached, Paul launches the Dmax into Nolan’s…

The Dmax auditioning for a spot alongside the Nepean Belle…

The Dmax sucks in a breath…followed closely by Paul!!

After a nervous wee and a quick prayer to the Toyota gods, Ant guides the Prado into Nolans Brook…

No backing down now…

And exits successfully with not a drop inside and the motor still ticking over…oh yeah!!!

With arguably the most challenging and deepest crossing under the belt, we set up on the otherside and had a quick swim before heading for Fruit Bat Falls…

Fruit Bat falls was beautiful and the water temperature was perfect, warm enough to slide into while still being refreshing.

We headed back to camp with one final water crossing to go. We had already tackled this crossing the day before and after a day of 4WDriving the boys approached this one with a bit more confidence. As a result Anthony donated both spot light covers to the water gods as the approach was a little too fast.

After another delicious dinner we chatted with some fellow campers and then it was time to turn in as it was off to Weipa the next morning.

 

 

 

Day 15 – Seisia to Eliot Falls

After 5 days of being settled, and completely unpacked, it was always going to be a long, potentially stressfull pack up…So we all agreed and the ‘Stress Free Pack Up Day‘ was born. Everyone drew extra breaths, counted to 10 in their heads and tried their best to keep calm….Minor terse words with the kids, but so far so good….albeit about 90mins late.

We farewelled Seisia Holiday Resort and drove into Bamaga for a supply top up. Team Dmax was well ahead of us, but politely pulled to the side of the road whilst the shopping was undertaken. This innocuous 10 minute dash into the supermarket resulted in the demise of the formerly mentioned ‘stress free pack up day’….

Upon returning to the camper to stock the drinks, Ant realised the water filler cap was not in place. Recalling the tanks had been filled by Ethan and Paul earlier, Ant went into meltdown, apportioning blame for the lost cap to all and sundry, including himself. We turned around and headed back to camp on a search for the cap which proved fruitless.  In his anger, Ant threw on a hat and started walking from the park towards Bamaga, a walk of around 30mins or so. Clare topped up the petrol and Ant commenced his Bamaga Walk-A-Thon / Search for a Cap, in 32deg heat…. (this performance easily matched my meltdown on day 8 -Cx)

10mins into the walk, and after a car load of dodgy looking cats pulled up and tried to encourage Ant into their car for a lift, the search was abandoned. The filling point was taped up, and we were on our way…The mood in the car a little tense, but eased up around 20mins later by the time we got to the Archer River Ferry.

It was a short trip comparatively and around 90mins later we arrived at the entrance to Eliot, Twin and Fruit Bat Falls.

Entering the Eliot Falls camping area…

With a distance of 7.2kms to our destination, the vibe was relaxed and filled with anticipation of our first swim in fresh, croc-free water…And then we rounded the bend….

Our first major water crossing, with trailers in tow. Having never traversed such an obstacle, Ant was free to admit he was a little nervous. The boys thought it was fantastic, Clare remained silent.The two crews got out and assessed the challenge, deemed it ‘passable’ and with the good old Aussie “she’ll be right”, we waded on in….up to the headlights!!. A touch deeper than we expected, and the heart was in the mouth for a split second,both Ant and the Prado holding their breath. The trailers floated a little, but got through relatively unscathed. A small amount of water in the step of the van, but nothing to panic about. The Dmax and Prado remained dry and punched us out the otherside without fuss..

The Dmax takes a deep breath – A few kms in and this is what stood between us and the pristine, refreshing waters of Eliot Falls…

The ‘high-tide’ mark on the camper trailer…

Checking the water egress after our first major water crossing…

With the crossing done, we ‘high fived’ one another over the UHF and headed on to our campsite for the next two nights. A quick set up and we were off to Twin Falls, just a 300m walk from our camp.

Our campsite @ Eliot Falls

Arriving at the falls we were all taken back by the beauty of the place. The water was clear, warm and a suitable solice to take refuge in after days and days of dusty, hot driving. The kids went beserk and climbed, splashed and jumped their way all over the falls. The adults took refuge up top and enjoyed a cold one to celebrate the arrival…

Splash, splash, splash…Harper in Twin Falls…

After a refreshing swim we returned to camp and settled in for the night. A big day ahead, we were set to tackle the northern section of the infamous Overland Telegraph Track (‘OTT’) and its notorious water crossings….

Rookie mistake of the day – Not putting the water cap back on the tank after filling with water. This mistake has rendered the larger water tank useless for drinking and cooking due to the dirt that may have entered the tank during the drive with no cap. We now use this trank for hand washing and rinsing.

 

Day 14 – Seisia – The Return of Clare, E and Harper

After a difficult day yesterday Ethan, Harper and I boarded an airport shuttle bus at 4:30am in anticipation for a 6:00am flight to Cairns. We stayed at a hotel near the airport to make things a bit easier.

Harper was good again on the flight but after late nights and early mornings the teenager travelling with us had had enough and was less then cheery. He was also a little down as he had the chance to see his Dad and Nan at my Nan’s funeral and it hit home just how far away we are and how much he misses his Dad.

Our 4 hour stop over at Cairns felt like 10 and the flight from Cairns to Bamaga seemed to take just as long.

In the meantime, Ant and Ben joined the Dmax crew on a little 4×4 adventure through the bush tracks and beach runs over to Punsand Bay. The hilly and sandy terrain tested both the Dmax and Prado, but they performed effortlessly and did their owners proud. With a sensational lunch at Punsand Bay Resort (Paul rating his Steak Sandwich a 10/10), we headed back to Bamaga in time to greet the returning members of the Prado crew…

Heading up through the dunes…

A short line up to get off the beach…

The Prado dipping her toes in the sand…

Dmax Crew setting up the GoPro

Lunch @ Punsand Bay Resort

View along Punsand Bay – Helicopter Optional…

Benny & Brooke @ Punsand Bay Resort

Just random parking outside the legendary ‘Croc Tent’…

How lovely it was to see Ant and Ben at Bamaga Airport waiting for us.

It was a difficult couple of days only made better by the thought that Nan is at peace now. It was just such a shock to us all – she wasn’t sick and was busy making plans for her future.

With the gang back together it was time to prepare for Saturdays departure to Eliot Falls…

Interesting fact of the day – Seisia has a population of around 160 people and the camp grounds are used by 50%  of travellers heading to “the tip”.

Day 13 – Day Trip to Thursday Island

With half the crew in Sydney, the Seisia’ns boarded the ‘Strait Runner’ at Seisia Wharf and travelled over to Thursday Island for a snappy little day trip.

Ben and Dad on Thursday Is

We decided against the bus tour option, choosing to explore the island at our own leisure….A decision that was probably re-considered halfway up the long, steep hill to the elevated Green Hill Fort…

Green Hill Fort – Thursday Is

Green Hill Fort – Thursday Is

View of Thursday Is dock (taken from Green Hill Fort)

The sudden onset of a ‘pressing matter’ for one of the party resulted in the groups seperating for a short time, meeting up at the Torres Strait Hotel, known as ‘The Top Pub’ (in reference to being the northern most hotel in the Australian continent. After a quick feed, we wandered the main street of Thursday Island, perusing the wares of the local traders. With the usual dust collecting souveniers onboard, we headed for the ferry dock and cruised through the Torres Strait back to Seisia…

Benny on the dock waiting for our ferry home…

 Rookie mistake of the day – opting to walk and tour ourselves as opposed to paying for the bus tour. It was a long hard walk to the top of the mountain.

Interesting fact of the day – In the 1970’s Papua New Guinea sought to include some of the Torres Strait Islands within it’s borders but the Torres Strait Islanders insisted they were Australians and after much political discussion they remained part of Australia.